A friend of mine is going to Dragon Con (sadly I can’t go this year), and commissioned me to make her a costume. The actress who played Deanna Troi in Star Trek: The Next Generation (Marina Sirtis), is going to be a guest this year, so my friend wanted her green dress made. The funny thing about this dress as I was looking up reference photos, is depending on several factors, the dress either looked green, teal, or turquoise. I did my best to find fabrics that looked close and consulted with my friend. The fabric we ended up with is probably darker than the actual color, but she loved it and that’s what mattered to me. 🙂
Somewhere online, there is an actual pattern for this dress that someone came up with, but it’s rather pricey. So I went through the plethora of patterns that I have, and found one to modify. I went with Simplicity 1045, specifically View B for the bodice of the dress. Stretch knit fabrics aren’t on the list of recommended fabrics for this pattern, but I’ve had no problems with using it for this.
First, I cut out the pieces I needed, and traced them out on medical paper, and increased the sizing. This pattern went up to a size 20, and I needed it to be a few sizes larger. (*Sewing tip: You can increase the size of a pattern by measuring the distance between the sizes that are printed on the pattern. You don’t need to worry about adding seam allowance if you are going by the pattern’s sizing because that is already figured in.*) The main pattern pieces for the dress are all one piece, but I needed to only make bodice pieces for the time being, so I traced the pattern to be longer than what I needed, and then determined where I needed them to stop, which looked to be just above the hips, according to the reference photos. So I patterned the bottom of the bodice to the asymmetrical shape of the dress.
The top of this gave me some issues. After some trial and error, what ended up working for me was sewing the two side front pieces and the front pieces to each other (using some scrap fabric), UNMODIFIED, and then cutting the neck line into that same asymmetrical shape. When I did that, these were the resulting pieces I got when I took them apart:
The lowest point of the neckline stops about at the very tip of the bust point, but I raised it a little bit higher, as my friend has a bigger bust. I made a mock-up of the bodice using some performance fabric I had bought a while back and never did anything with, and tried it on myself. My friend and I are around the same size in dresses, so I figured that if it fit me, it would fit her. I had her come try on the mock-up a few days later, and it was a success. 🙂
The sleeve for view B of this pattern is about a 3/4″ sleeve, and has a bell piece that attaches around it. Obviously, I didn’t need that part of the pattern, but my friend decided that she liked a shorter sleeve, so we decided not to lengthen it to a full sleeve. However, the bottom of the sleeve will be taken in to be more fitted to her arm
Next time, I’ll talk about the neck band pieces and the skirt! The design of this dress overall, actually is not very hard, but the asymmetrical neckline has been interesting to work with. Thanks for reading! ❤